Blogging... Consuming Too Much Time...

I had a fear it would come to this... After spending nearly three hours posting about the location I was at over a month ago, I´ve decided to shelf the blog. I should have seen this coming when I was at the farm in Olmue. I had easy access to internet and loads of free time for three weeks and was barely able to push out one post. Now that I´m on the move, its nearly impossible to keep up and I really can´t justify wasting any of the time I have down here by sitting in front of a computer. I hope to update this with pictures and notes in chronology when I return to the states, but for now... consider it dead. ¡Lo siento!

Terremoto de Chile

The rumors are true... after a long hard day of work under the sun and an action packed Friday night, I did end up sleeping through the earthquake (which was roughly a 7.0 in Olmue, Chile). There was a good amount of damage in the region. Not too many collapsed buildings (although you can see one just down the street from us pictured below), but the power was knocked out for about a week and just about anything on a wall or table came down. There was glass shattered everywhere in the main house in the morning as well as lots of cracks in the walls and ceilings.

In order to coordinate plans with Chelsea who was scheduled to arrive the following Thursday, I headed back to Sebastian´s couch in Viña del Mar. He had a significant amount of dry wall fall from the ceiling and walls (including a massive chunk that was directly above the guest bed). Viña had power, but no water. It was a trade off I was willing to make at the time. We (Kevin of Philadelphia, who was also on the WWOOF farm was with me) spent a lot of time hanging out on the beach. There was one pretty significant after shock while we were at the beach. About half of the people there packed their things and left. The other half (including us) just moved slighlty further away from the water. The waves picked up a little, but nothing major. Apparently, the extremely deep bay which makes Viña del Mar an excellent shipping port also makes it nearly impossible for a tsunami to form. Lucky us. Below are a couple shots of the damage in Olmue, Chile:

A collapsed building just down the main road from us in Olmue, Chile.

Siding damage as seen above was quite common.

Los Perros de Olmue

Aside from being the premier grower of the bizzare and beloved horn fruit, The Inca Gold Brand farm is also one of the leading protectors of stray dogs (of which there is no shortage in Chile). There were roughly 25 adopted dogs on the farm in Chile and another 30-40 on the Washington State farm. Below you can get a small sneak peek of the herd:

New pups in the de-contamination zone. The paint indicates a recent vaccination.

Unknown husky... the eyes scare me (as you will see, I was not able to learn even close to all of their names).




Unknown wirey-haired pup who has a (not pictured) smooth hair twin.



Mama! The second in command (to Red, pictured below).



Jenny - Cute as pie, but real annoying.



Charlie - Not the sharpest tool in the shed... okay, he is the dullest, but its what gives him his charm!







Valentina - Fattest dog on campus, and in the end, my favorite.



Red - The deputy. First in command, keeping all the other punks in line.



Selva (Jungle) - Lacked personality.



Stephanie - Grover´s female counter part in Chile! Loved Stephanie. Lots of character and she really appreciates a good nose scratching.



Unknown skiddish pup.


New dog named Pheonix until a better name is decided upon. No manners.


Maggie - Cutest, most well behaved pup in the litter. This lucky dog is headed State-side at the end of the year.

Krema aka Shit Eater - The dog honestly eats a lot of poop and has a terrible habit of comulsively licking people.


Rosalinda - Spends every waking moment staring at the ground waiting for any sort of relfection to appear. When they do (watches or ipods in the vaccinity), she pounces, digs, and is as happy as a clam!

The Inca Gold Brand

An unforseen earthquake (to be blogged about at a later date) hindered my blog efforts in my last weekend at the Inca Gold Brand farm. I am now back in Viña del Mar at Sebastian´s house, surfing couch until Chelsea arrives in Santiago (assuming all goes to plan) on Thursday. Olmué, the town of the farm, is still without power, but they have water. In Viña, we have power, but no water. A trade off I´m willing to make for the meantime.

(The Main House, Olmue, Chile)

The Inca Gold Brand is a farm owned by Ami Gomberoff. He has two locations, one in Washington State and one in Olmue, Chile. Ami and left and right hand men, Steve and Wayne, travel between the two farms during harvesting seasons, living in a perpetual summer. The primary fruit harvested at both farms is the Cuke-Asaurus (an Inca Gold Brand trademarked name for what is more commonly known as the horn fruit). The Cuke-Asaurus is a little bit sour if not completely rippened and tastes like a hybrid kiwi-cucumber. Inside the oddly shapped fruit is a bunch of slimmy green seeds, similar to a pomegranate, but the seeds are slightly larger and more moist. The texture is quite similar to caviar.

It is about a 15 minute drive from where we live, clean, and pack the fruit (see above) to the feild where we harvest it (see below). The Cuke-Asaurus are planted in long rows of mounded dirt with irrigation pipes running along top of the mounds and a plastic covering over the mound. The plant grows through holes in the plastic and the fruits rippen underneath the bushy leaves. I spent the majority of my time on the farm harvesting the fruit, which can be a demanding task on the knees and lower back as the plant lies so low to the ground.
(Where the Wild Cuke-Asaurus Things Are, Limanche, Chile)


(Break Time, Limanche, Chile)

Once we sort through the Cuke-Asaurus, tossing bad, sun-burned fruit and picking the larger, whitish/yellowish fruits, we place the ´keepers´in the blue and white crates pictured in the back of the trailer above. Depending on where we are in the field, it can be a pretty long walk with the heavy crates of fruit suspended over head to the truck. On a typical day, we wake up around 8 am for breakfast and are out to the field by 9 am. We take a short break around 11 am and head back to the house for lunch and siesta around 2pm. We go back out to the field for a couple hours around 4 pm, then eat dinner and do what we will with our free time.

(Pallets of crates of Cuke-Asaurus, Olmue, Chile)

When we arrive back at the warehouse with the fruit, it is unloaded on to pallets (see above) which are kept in a temperature controlled room (65 degrees F). We then sort the fruit according to how ripe it is (yellow/orange being very ripe, green being not ripe) and clean the fruit using paint brushes and a machine made by the handy men on the farm. Once the fruit is cleaned, it is packaged according to how large the fruit is and then shipped off to local markets in Chile or a certified shipping plant in Chile before it is sent to a distributor in the United States and shipped all over the country. (Keep an eye out for the Inca Gold Brand Cuke-Asaurus at your local markets!)

(Cleaned and packaged fruit, ready for shipping, Olmue, Chile)


(The ever-so-tasty driveway is loaded with table grapes vines, yum! Olmue, Chile)

(WWOOFers at the beach (Left-to-right: Terry, Heather, Me, Steve, and Avery), Reñaca, Chile)


(Kiwi trees at the house, Olmue, Chile)


(My house, Olmue, Chile)

Viña del Mar -> Olmue

(Sebastian (host/left) & the Surfers: Me, Martine from Norway, and Sarah from Australia)

The weekend in Viña del Mar far exceeded expectations. Sebastian (see above) was a superb host, taking us to all the local hot spots and treating us to a most delicious Chileano maritime BBQ at his friend's house just to the north in Rañaca (pictures of the BBQ below). All of Sebastian's friends were very nice and welcoming and they also spoke a damn near perfect English. Nonetheless, I learned a lot of Spanish throughout the weekend (especially all of the necessary local slang, very important). On Monday (Feb 8th), I hopped a train and bus to Olmue, a quant mountain town just north and inland (east) from Viña del Mar to start work on my first WWOOF farm. We worked a lot in the first week; long hours under the sun harvesting the ever so obscure yet tasty fruit the cuke-asaurus. As I haven't had much time to take pictures of the farm, I'll save the detailed description for later. However, the farm life isn't so bad. We've got a pool, TV, computer, and (now) a bed (I was sleeping in my tent for the first 4-5 days). There's also 24 dogs here! I've attached some pictures below. Most are from Viña del Mar. There's one from Santiago and a couple from Olmue.

(Hanging outside the Presidential Palace, Santiago, Chile - Photo taken by Nona Landers!)


(The 'other' Groovy Uvy aka UVM, Viña del Mar, Chile)


(Sebastian Soto showing off the spread, Rañaca, Chile)


(Tasty fresh mussels... Mmmmm, Rañaca, Chile)


(Sarah and I right down by dah beach! Viña del Mar, Chile)

(Sebastian Soto's door signed by every couch surfer that has ever stayed at his house, Viña del Mar, Chile)

(Leaving my mark, Viña del Mar, Chile)

(The digs in Olmue. In the background is the peak we are going to hike next weekend. Olmue, Chile)

(Martin, pronounced "Marteeeeeeeeeen!" Son of Jessie, our cook. Cutest kid ever? Olmue, Chile)

Santiago -> Viña del Mar

(Mis amigos, Plaza de Armas, Santiago, Chile)


First two nights in Santiago were a blast. Met lots of great people (see above!) in the hostel. On Friday, Pedro (farthest right, from Brazil) and I hopped a bus to Viña del Mar, a beautiful coastal city. I´m currently ´couch surfing´with a guy named Sebastian who has been VERY helpful. He is also hosting two girls from Norway and Australia. The three of them have a lot of experience couch surfing and have quickly convinced me it is an essential tool for cheap travel. You get free housing and access to the knowledge of a local, a great combo.

Making a day trip to Valparaiso, a coastal city just south of Viña, with Pedro today. I´m still asking around trying to find a bar that will be playing the Super Bowl on Sunday, but apparently there are some big (´real´) football games the same day so its unlikely anywhere will be broadcasting futbol americano. On Monday, I´m off to my first farm in Olmue. I´m unsure of what I will have for internet access so this may be the last update for a little bit, but all is very well in South America for now.

Made It! Sunny Santiago

(View from my hostel, Plaza de Armas, Santiago, Chile)

The connection in Toronto aside (flying from Colorado, USA to Santiago, Chile), it was pretty smooth sailing today. Made it in just after noon and, after a $10 cab ride, was to the hostile by 1pm. It was an absolutely gorgeous day in an even more gorgeous part of town. Our hostile, Plaza de Armas, looks over a park by the same name. The park has palm trees, benches, and artists galore. It is a lively place to be. Additionally, it is surrounded in nearly all directions by thriving markets. As the late afternoon rolled in, a massive chess tourney (of which I was too late to join) began.

On the plane, I have the pleasure of meeting a mirror image of myself. A 23 year old CU alumn headed on a solo-backpacking trip with no real itinerary in mind. Needless to say, we had lots to talk about. I would also add that it has been a pleasure getting to meet everyone in the hostile so far: a couple gringos, a couple Brazilian, two locals, and a lady from the UK. Very nice and outgoing bunch!

The sun is just going down now (9:30pm) and I must go experience the busstling night life, but I just wanted to let everyone know I made it and that all is well!

PS - I purchased a new lover! Her name is Henrietta and she has nylon strings (better get them fingers-a-pickin). The guitar cost me $100,000 chilean pesos (or $200 USD).

Emphasis on 'Loose'

Less than a two days after making my debut post to this blog 'The Loose Itinerary', things have changed rather dramatically. I decided that if I'm flying into Chile (and especially if I have to pay a $100 entry fee to get into the country), I might as well shop around and see what the country has to offer. Also, I really want to spend a weekend livin' it up at the ocean. I am still going to stay at the same hostel when I arrive in Chile. Additionally, I will capitalize on the very inexpensive and rather high quality (so I hear) bus system, but I will head West instead of East.

I discovered a site that I have instantly fallen in love with and it is one that any budget traveller should know about: CouchSurfing.org You have to pay a minimal fee of $25 via credit card so they can verify your identity. They also send a postcard with a password to your address to verify the location of your coach. After that, you are apart of a massive global network of people sharing their coaches, experiences, languages, and cultures for FREE (by this time, you've forgotten about the $25 verification fee). The website uses a friend/vouching network (similar to FaceBook) so you can read about peoples past experiences with any host. Its somewhat hard being new to the site because you (I) don't have any that have vouched for you (me) yet. However, I have had quite the amount of luck. A young man by the name of Sebastian Soto has agreed to take me into his home in beautiful and sunny Vina del Mar and show me around for the weekend following my arrival in Chile.

(Vina del Mar, Chile)

After a weekend of 'life on da beach', it's time to get dirty. I joined Chile WWOOF and my first farm is located in the city of Olmue. Olmue is conveniently located between Vina del Mar and Santiago. They farm cuke-asaurus, melomate, avocados, many others crops. See the farms website HERE and read their official WWOOF blurb below:

There are two farms, one with organic avocados in Olmué city, and another 1000 has. farm in Colliguay, it has a lot of herbs, organic land and many other crops, those ones were in extinction process. Lodging is at a hostel in Olmue city with many bedrooms and bathrooms, it has capacity foreight people. Usually all people eat lunch togheter, normal chilean meals with a lot of vegetables andchilean fruits are eaten. We are American citizens but the people who will receive wwoofers will be chilean people. We love Nature. On the farm there are many pets, there is also an animal protection center. We only want to receive wwoofers who wish to have a strong communion with other people; they have to love animals and be available to help whenever is necessary. Arriving to Olmué city is possible by taking a bus from Santiago (Estación Central Bus Station) or from Viña del Mar. We need you to stay one month at least.

After filling that farms month long requirement, from there (for now at least), the itinerary goes forward as planned: a weekend in Mendoza (either at a hostel or couch surfing) for La Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia and then down to the farm in Tunuyan.

'The Pack'

Packing 4.5 months worth of your life into a backpack is a manageable challenge. Here's a list of the items the made the cut:

• Tent
• Sleeping Bag (thanks Mom for the much lighter, smaller, and, simply put, much better bag!)
• Camping Pillow
• Sleeping Pad
• Sox (10 pair?)
• Boxers (7)
• T-Shirts (7 short, 3 long)
• Pair of Jeans and pair of Carharts
• Fleece
• Winter Shell
• Heavy-duty Poncho
• Head Lamp (w/ 2 extra sets of batteries)
• Asthma Inhalers (8 in total! 4 rescue, 4 day-to-day)
• Camera (w/ charger, extra memory card, and extra battery)
• Cell Phone (for local calls and emergency use)
• Cell Phone SIM Card (otherwise the cellphone is useless)
• iPod (w/ headphones and USB charger)
• 2 Electrical Converters for Chile and Argentina
• First Aid Kit (the basics)
• Advil & Tylenol PM
• Anti-Diarrheal ('Nuff said, right?)
• PASSPORT
• Wallet
• Duct Tape
• Safety Pins
• Tooth Paste
• Tooth Brush
• Gold Bond
• Ear Plugs
• Water Filtration Pump
• Extra Pair of Shoes
• Small Bag
• Chile Guide Book
• Argentina Guide Book
• Spanish-English Dictionary
• Journal
• Two Books for Reading (The Honorary Consul and Hopscoth)
• Pens
• Sunglasses
• Rubik's Cube (Be prepared for anything)
• Travel Itineraries
• Chile and Argentina WWOOF Host Lists

As of right now, it's all just barely squeezing into my bag. Pretty heavy pack, but manageable. If you are hoping for a souvenir when I get back, don't get too excited!

The Loose Itinerary

(Santiago, Chile)

Its two weeks until I board a plane in Denver bound for Santiago, Chile (connecting in Toronto, ugh!). I have four nights reserved at the Plaza de Armas Hostel right in the heart of Santiago, Chile. I have absolutely no plans for my time in Chile. As it stands, I will probably stay for a couple nights before catching a bus over the Andes into Mendoza, Argentina.

The bus ride from Santiago, Chile to Mendoza, Argentina is suppose to be a beautiful ride. Barring any extended hold up at customs (wishful thinking, from what I've read), the ride takes 8 hours. While most bus companies provide very luxurious sleeper buses for typically just over $20, it is advisable to get a front row seat and travel during the day so as to not miss the amazing views (see above).

(General San Martin Park, Mendoza, Argentina)

Next, I will spend several days in Mendoza, Argentina. The city (and province also called Mendoza) is considered the wine capital of the country and the continent. After a couple days in Mendoza, I hop another bus down to the city of Tunuyan to head out to my first farm. Below is the preview of the first farm:

Type of property: Organic farm
Size (ha): 7
Cultivos: pear, apples, grapes, and medicinal herbs.
We speak: English, Spanish, Italian and Japanese
Description: Welcome to our volunteer program!
The farm is located about 15 kms from the turistic city of Tunuyan. All that the city has to offer is within easy reach, like the shopping area, supermarkets, hotels, hospital, etc. We are working in a project to create a holistic organic farm/retreat center with a program based on spirituality and respect for animals, nature and environment. The farm is located in seven hectares of beautiful land which are located near the Andes mountains in a rich soil area which is suitable for the growing of apples, pears, cherries, grapes, tomatoes and more. It has an old adobe house. We offer a splendid natural scenery to stay. Use of organic fruits and vegetables from the farm. Fresh mineral water. Simple accommodation. Free Buddhist teachings, meditation, yoga, natural cooking. Also in the area you can practice outdoor activities like hiking, trekking, biking. We are looking for people with knowledge/skills in organic farming, construction, permaculture, carpentry, ect...etc... as well as people who can put their whole hearts to this project. If you feel you have a contribution to this type of environment and to our project please send your CV.
Accomodation: basic accommodation in the old adobe house.
The land has lots of space for camping and you can bring your own tent as well.
Maximun number of people admited each time: 25 people
Food: Vegetarian meals. Meals are made and eaten in group. Light evening meals.
Volunteers are expected to follow some simple internal rules according to Buddhist values.
We are: Organic farm and retreat center which is part of the Tibetan Buddhist monastery project “La Joya del Sur” in Mendoza.
When to come: All year round-Starting November 2009
Additional comments: This project will support several social programs in order to benefit the local community.

I currently plan on staying at the above farm for 3 weeks. After talking to the owner of the second farm I am going to (and a simple read over of the description), the first farm seems to be quite idyllic. From what I gather its not much of an actual farm i.e. only one shovel on site. However, so long as they feed me two meals a day and give me a plot to set up my tent, I will be a happy camper (pun intended).

Next, I will shoot back north to the city of Mendoza to attend La Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia. It is the national wine harvest festival and carries on for two weeks culminating during the first weekend of March. After a weekend of song, dance, and wine, I will bus it back to Tunuyan to head out to the second farm. Below you can find the preview of the farm as posted on the WWOOF website or head to the farm's blog for more information and pictures.

Small farm started just 1 yr ago. Beautiful tranquil area near Andes, 1 hour south of Mendoza. Bordered by two other organic WWOOF farms and swimmer friendly ditches. Basic, clean accommodations, composting toilet, solar shower, functional kitchen. Looking for help with construction of a passive solar off the grid adobe house and large, organic garden with fruit trees. Requesting volunteers with experience and/or strong interest in natural construction and gardening. Also looking for someone that would mainly oversee meal prep and clean-up. Strong work ethic and positive mood REQUIRED. Beds limited, tents recommended. Please give minimum 2 weeks notice.

My stay at the second farm will include a lot of natural construction on top of gardening. The farm is run by a woman (Margot) and her daughter. They have hosted many WWOOFers in the past and I look forward to getting my hands dirty with them. Below are a couple of pictures from their farm.